Has anyone in here ever fixed a clicking hdd on their own?

I've heard mixed things about it, some say it works, others say it fucks it up worse because of condensation. why does shrinking components due to cold temperatures mean it suddenly works again? is it really that sensitive?

What if they find his CP?

Yeah by upgrading from that outdated shit to an SSD like a normal person.

checked.
That's why I'm saying read up on it.
I triple ziplock bagged mine when I did it and had an industrial supply of desiccant on hand for this.
Then he gets the wall. Simple.

Rip in piece o7

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What do you think he's trying to recover you retard, teen gallery got taken down

Kill yourself you worthless, overpaid fed fuck. ALL government employees should be rounded up and thrown into incinerators. You serve no useful purpose and should do the country a favor by ending your worthless existence.

Yes. The entire thing works by small changes in magnetism. The reader is like several microns away from the platter at any given moment.

That's a fucken reach

yeah but the thing spins when it starts up just clicks a few times and powers down probably going to try this first

Go get an industrial strength magnet, capable of pulling 200+ lbs, and place it on your hdd for an hour or so. That usually fixes them.

Sometimes the click is caused by a stuck spindle motor, which can have several causes. Sometimes you can free it up by dropping it flat against a hard surface (like a disk,) sometimes you can freeze it to cause the bearings to release enough due to thermal contraction. If the motor is running, a click can mean a crashed head or surface damage. If it is, you're fucked and you might be able to use a data recovery service with a clean room to recover some of your data.

The more you run it, the less likely it is to recover anything. Surface damage will get worse, fast. A crashed head will strip the surface. AND if you have glass platters, trying force could shatter them. Best option: if it's important data, send it off. If it's not important data, take it out to the range and plink it.

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Anyone have a schizo reaction image? I need one for the collection.

unless you can find the exact hard drive to swap logic boards, you dont have a chance of fixing. best bet is data recovery.

how much porn you got? lol

Put some tight bands around it and then cut off the reader arm.

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Sorry, I didn't answer your question. The short answer is, yes, I have, but I also have (had) very expensive equipment to do so. It was a service I provided until about six years ago as everyone moved to SSDs. I was only doing about one spinning rust recovery a quarter and I needed the space for more productive purposes.

SSDs are okay for speed but costwise it's much cheaper to get magnetic drives and a hardware raid dock

Just wait until 2022 elections, sweaty! We'll vooooteee our asses off and make everything better! It hasn't worked for the last 50 fucking years but this time, it will be different!!!!

this.
also, try giving it a rotational "flick" to help it spin up. I've rescued a few drives back in the day with a good wrist flick

>onepcbsolution.com
I get it, but the clicking in your drive is motor or bearings.
How would changing the board is going to do anything? If you want to throw money at the problem, go to a data recovery place that will get you your shit back.

>sweaty
Why do you Any Forums fags fag up our threads all the time??

i used the wrong power supply on it and it stalled when copying stuff, then I realized it was wrong and couldn't access it thereafter, it used to click constantly, now just 5 times and stops. i dont think the head is parked over the platters but maybe

>good wrist flick

master fapper at work.

I don't care for jews or maga folks so I never waste my time there.

In that case, you might be able to revive it by swapping the controller with an identical drive. If you used bad power, you might have just fried the power supply on the board.

>i used the wrong power supply

seems like you fried the logic board. hunt for a used hard drive on ebay. it has to be exact year model. easy to swap as long as you have the right torx size.

Then go somewhere else. "Hey, there's a thread about damaged hard drives. Let's shit it up with political faggotry."

yeah problem is i used a 9v instead of a 12v power supply, the supply is fried now so I imagine it had an effect on the board but this is why i'm so convinced its the pcb

lmao there was this autistic man at my work a few years ago who also had a legit business fixing computers on the side. I was always fucking with him and I told him what he would do if he fixed my computer and found porn on it. He had such an oddly incriminating response it was scary. Then a month later he got fired cuz they looked up his record and found out he raped some little girl and his whole family had to move

i removed a hemoroid this way. worked flawlessly

it is the pcb. but it should have been able to handle the difference. 9v instead of 12v is not gonna fry anything.

how the heck did you fuck up the power source? PSU only gives 3v, 5v and 12v rails.

Does the motor run at all? If the motor is direct-driven by the 12v line, running 9v through it could have burned the motor. If it cannot spin up, then it still pumps power through the coils. Normally the controller should stop it (it's really just a fast stepper motor) but it depends on a number of factors. In any case, a replacement drive on eBay should be cheap enough to give swapping the controll a try.

it's one of those power supplies that works at different voltages, you attach a connector to match what you're using and switch to what voltage you want to use. i didnt see that i accidentally moved the switch to 9v