/mkg/

>Keyboard recommendation template
pastebin.com/n220xk9V

>Where to buy keyboards
mechmap.tech/themap
keycaplendar.firebaseapp.com
mechgroupbuys.com/keyboards
alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/

>News:
Vortex Multix TKL is out, KBT:Re (IBM PCjr lookalike) is almost sold out.
Keychron Q4 is in pre-launch.
Poorfags looking for 75% just buy Feker IK75.
Keychron Q5 for 96%/full size by June, or FL Esports CMK98 (try to avoid buying on Ali for insane shipping prices).

No, Ducky, Steelseries, Razer, Corsair, etc. is not good. You are paying for the brand.

Switches have evolved from the standard red/brown/blue. Use the template and wait for anons to recommend better alternatives.

Previous:

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Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=neRCIMUjSqc
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

First for CLICC

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you're a weapons-grade faggot

FL Esports CMK98

GOOD

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>slowly being convinced toward buying the CMK
980 my beloved...

Logitech G700? Any double clicking issues with it?

That's a wired G502 Hero from the look of it. Good mouse, especially for the half-off $40 it's on sale for on Amazon right now.

been using cherry silent red boards for the past 5 years. also been eyeing the keychron Q5 for a while. are there any enthusiast switches similar to silent reds i should try when (if) i get one?

How much clearance do you have between the lowest point of the case to the base plate?

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if you're looking for something expensive, silent alpaca. more affordable would be silent ink blacks, which is a direct upgrade from silent reds.

boba gums are great

Anyone had CandyKeys seemingly taking forever to get their keyboard delivered or should I just cancel my order at this point? (Been almost two and a half months).

Not much. I have the 'keyboard-z-offset' near the top of the clojure set to 8.

GMMK Pro 75%, Maxkey Foundation SA keycaps, 80g Aliaz switches.

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This, no double click yet. So far the switches have lasted longer than the G402 it replaced, I had to change a switch out like every 6 months on that

youtube.com/watch?v=neRCIMUjSqc

Thera75 Tescee diamonds.
Sounds like shaking a can of spray paint

If you want an upgrade to an FL980 or other 1800 keyboard the CMK is pretty much an "endgame" option alongside Keychron Q5 (assumedly) but in plastic case flavor. Featureset seems to be the same as the FL980 but has on-board memory for retained settings, the settings can be changed wirelessly over 2.4ghz in the driver software, and it comes in a pretty good array of colors with FLA (read: true PBT Akko ASA) keycaps.

It's pretty damned heavy, significantly heavier than the FL980. I'm not sure where the weight is coming from as I haven't taken it apart yet. Mine came with the remainder of the FLA keycap set (further cementing that it's an Akko equivalent as it came with all the usual Akko keycaps except for their logo and other flair keys bundled into every set) in a heat-sealed baggie that claimed it was a store gift and not a standard feature in a Chinese label on it, so I can't actually be sure you're supposed to get the remainder of the keycap set or if it was some extra from Mechkeys. The label also claims that it's basically runoff for the keycap set and odd colors or legend inconsistencies might occur, but given it came with every key that wasn't already on the CMK98 I imagine it's a generic label.

If you already have an FL980 you should basically only consider the CMK98 if you want:
>on-board memory
>wireless
>different case design
>an ASA ("FLA") ) PBT keycap set
>a heftier keyboard

Since if you keep your keyboard wired all the time anyways the wireless and on-board memory will make no difference.

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What keycaps are the CLOSEST to Keytronic's keys (pic rel)

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if you're talking about the keycap shape, mt3. for stem, idk.

Is royal kludge 60% good?

no. i had the rk61, it worked fine for the first 3 months, then the battery started to charge less, then certain keys started to chatter. of course my experience is different from other people, so your mileage may vary. but a simple search on reddit seems to indicate that i am not alone with how shitty royal kludge products are. with chinkshit, you get what you pay for, so maybe consider a board with a better reputation, like kbd67 or q2?

Soldering a DIY board is that difficult?

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