/mkg/

>Keyboard recommendation template
pastebin.com/n220xk9V

>Where to buy keyboards
mechmap.tech/themap
keycaplendar.firebaseapp.com
mechgroupbuys.com/keyboards
alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/

>Charts!
kiibohd.com

>QMK
config.qmk.fm/
beta.docs.qmk.fm/

>Relevant Links
youtube.com/watch?v=8YV8KmfBbBM&t=5s

Previous:

Attached: fuck you keyboard.jpg (680x515, 37.85K)

Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.com/Logitech-LIGHTSYNC-Spill-Resistant-Customizable-Multi-Media/dp/B07QGHK6Q8
keychron.com/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32294075072601
amazon.com/Logitech-Backlit-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01CDYB8AG
amazon.com/Keychron-White-Backlight-Brown-Switch/dp/B08CN9ZV2N
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Attached: kat atlantis keycaps 40%.png (3420x2560, 1.98M)

holy cringe

give me tips on reducing my keyboard noise

>Budget - $50-100 (higher if features call for it)

>Location (continent at least) - Freedomland

>Preferred switch type - never used anything other than Rubber Dome. couldn't tell you.

>Layout - standard QWERTY

>Form factor - I do use my 10key quite often for work.

>Backlight - Would be nice. I'm often working/gaming at night.

>Previous/current keyboards - Old IBM KU-0225 (Model M variant) I picked up at Goodwill.

I currently have a Logitech G502 mouse and G430 headphones. I'm leaning towards Logitech G brand, just to keep everything integrated.

I mostly play Genshin Impact, Dead Cells, and occasionally MCC.

Is this any good?

amazon.com/Logitech-LIGHTSYNC-Spill-Resistant-Customizable-Multi-Media/dp/B07QGHK6Q8

>Mech-Dome
Don't even think about it.
keychron.com/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32294075072601
Here you go, should be good enough as your first mech. Hot-swappable means that you can pull out switches without desoldering (in case you want to try something else, don't forget to buy a switch puller though, shit costs a couple of bucks on Amazon). I suggest going for blues because they're the tactile clicky ones, exactly what you expect from a mechanical keyboard. Red means linear, which means the key has no tactile feedback or sound, which is usually good for gaming.

Attached: mrme keyboard.jpg (2000x1333, 353.82K)

Thanks for the recommendation! Price looks good.

Is this one any good? I know it's >LOLGAYMENTECH, but I do like how it would be integrated with my existing equipment.

I also have Amazon points burning a hole in my wallet.

amazon.com/Logitech-Backlit-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01CDYB8AG

oh, nvm. they have it on Amazon. That works for me!

amazon.com/Keychron-White-Backlight-Brown-Switch/dp/B08CN9ZV2N

It's fine, but it only has Cherry MX Red switches. Cherry MX are considered pretty damn average in the community, and you'll want blue switches. Also, it's not hotswap.

Where can I get a nice coiled cable but not like the ones trannies use for their keebs with useless thickly packed coil for show on top of desk but a nice long stretchy kind like a model M?

silent switches. foam or silicone dampeners. and maybe get a less hollow board.

Can anyone recommend a 100% QWERTY keyboard kit?

I want a keyboard with either all MX Green or Box Navy, but can't find a premade one. I do not need or want RGB.

Depending on your tolerance for nekkid pcb and pcb-mount switches, the non-hotswap Clawboards SUV kit costs $45 - just add controller.

Attached: Clawboards SUV.jpg (1000x750, 205.94K)

The first thing everyone does is foaming - simply put a piece of foam below the PCB to lessen the rattle. I assume you're already using linears, but there is an option for even quieter linears if you're willing to look for it. Also don't forget to lube everything, especially stabilizers. Also O-rings, people often forget about those.
Note that nothing will make your keyboard completely silent.

The only reason to use a coiled cable is aesthetics. You don't need the functionality that coiled cables were designed for, because I doubt you're constantly moving your keyboard all over the place.

Did you just assume what I do with my keyboard sweaty?

Ducky one 3 or keychron c2 and change the switches? They've got a couple without lights.
Or you could get a pictek or victsing for around 20 bucks on ebay and replace the switches and keycaps. Just desolder the LEDs while you have it open. Kind of ridiculous that there's a fully built keyboard for that cheap but no kits that cheap.

waiting patiently for the q5

Attached: keychron q5 1800 knobless.png (1780x1314, 1.58M)

i fucking hate the sound of plate foam